The rivet SETS WILL fit either version (they both have a 3/16" pin to mount them). The yokes for the economy version do NOT fit the Tatco version. NOTE: You need to pick your rivet squeezer up front. I like Brown Aviation Tools, because the sell American versions of most tools, for a few more dollars. Any number of places sell the Chinese version for relatively few dollars. If you want to have the equipment to do this, I would suggest a aircraft rivet squeezer. I have used this technique successfully in non-critical joints, on artistic projects. This technique should never be used when lives are at stake. It is NOT (NO HOW, NO WAY) authorized for airframes. NOTE: You need to practice this several times on a similar piece of material.you will have to figure out how long to cut the rivet to get the correct amount of material to fill the countersink, but not stick out too much. Then squeeze (or, if you're feeling talented, use a rivet gun) the rivet and the shop head will deform and fill the countersink. I use this technique, when I need the back side of the rivet to be flush.cut a countersink into the material on the shop-head-side of the rivet. The underside is cut shorter than you would for a standard aircraft rivet, and fills the countersink to form the shop head. This is a universal rivet (see the flattened spot on the domed side?) That means it CAN be driven with a domed-head rivet set OR a flat rivet set. I've looked at the pictures again and here is what I think they did originally (and if not, then this is how *I* would duplicate the original rivet).
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